Paris at Christmas: A Local Guide to the Most Magical Season
You know what’s more magical than Christmas? Christmas in Paris! There’s something utterly intoxicating about Paris during the holidays. The City of Light transforms into a glittering wonderland where every corner sparkles with possibility, every patisserie window displays edible works of art, and the air itself seems to shimmer with festive magic. After spending several Christmases in Paris, I can confidently say: this is when the city reveals its most enchanting self.
I have been living in Paris for almost 20 years and yes, there is a way we savour it as a local compared to a traveller—but my tips are for you if you want a mix of insider local secrets and must-do first-time-in-Paris experiences. Think of this as your friend who lives in the 18th arrondissement sharing all her favorite holiday haunts.
The Passages Couverts: Hidden Gems Under Glass
Let me tell you about one of Paris’s best-kept secrets—the passages couverts, those gorgeous glass-roofed arcades that feel like stepping into a Belle Époque dream. Built in the 1820s as the original shopping malls, these architectural treasures become absolutely magical at Christmas.
Galerie Vivienne is my absolute favorite. The moment you step through its entrance at 6 rue Vivienne, you’re transported into another era. The mosaic floors designed by Venetian expert Giandomenico Facchina (who also worked on the Opéra Garnier!) gleam under twinkling fairy lights, and the elegant glass ceiling bathes everything in a soft, ethereal glow. Pop into Legrand Filles et Fils for wine tasting at their little tables right in the passage—it’s the chicest spot for people-watching while sipping something delicious.
Don’t miss Galerie Colbert right next door, Passage Jouffroy with its quirky antique shops and the famous toy store Pain d’Épices, and Passage du Grand Cerf with its soaring ceilings and artisan boutiques. The Passage Cero Dodat (that’s Galerie Véro-Dodat, a neoclassical beauty with black and white tiles) is another stunner that’s absolutely worth the detour.
Place Vendôme: Where Luxury Meets Light
If you only see one Christmas display in Paris, make it Place Vendôme (Place Vendôme, 75001). This octagonal square, surrounded by the world’s most prestigious jewelers and hotels, becomes a forest of illuminated trees that’ll make your Instagram feed explode. Four towering 10-meter trees anchor the square, while 150 smaller ones twinkle in front of luxury boutiques creating an enchanted forest in the heart of Paris.
Some of the boutiques to treat yourself or simply window shop include Cartier (where the iconic red boxes glow even more festively), Boucheron (their peacock displays are works of art), and Van Cleef & Arpels (their fairy-tale window designs are legendary). The lights cascade down rue de la Paix, rue de Castiglione, and rue Saint-Honoré in a shower of stars that’s simply breathtaking. Come at dusk to watch the lights come on—it’s pure magic.
Metro: Tuileries (Line 1), Opéra (Lines 3, 7, 8), Pyramides (Lines 7, 14)
The Fête Foraine des Tuileries: Carnival Magic
The Tuileries Gardens transform into a winter wonderland with one of Paris’s most beloved Christmas markets and carnival. You can smell the roasting chestnuts as soon as you exit the metro at Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre—that scent alone will transport you straight into the holiday spirit!
The Grand Roue (Ferris wheel) is an absolute must—there’s nothing quite like seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkle from above while you’re warm in your little capsule, champagne in hand (yes, they allow it!). The views stretch across the entire city, and if you time it right around sunset, you’ll catch that magical golden hour light painting the Parisian rooftops.
They have tons of food stalls and even a photo booth to time stamp the memories for years to come.
Kids will adore the vintage carousel and carnival games, but honestly? I’m a grown woman and I go for the hot chocolate, the nostalgic thrill of carnival rides, and the sheer joy of it all. The market runs from mid-November through early January, so you have plenty of time to visit.
Location: Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 Paris
Metro: Tuileries (Line 1), Concorde (Lines 1, 8, 12), Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre (Lines 1, 7)
Dates: Typically mid-November to early January
Hours: Usually 11am-11pm (check current hours before visiting)
The Ritz Paris: Teddy Bears and Traditions
The Ritz is pure magic at Christmas. Their adorable teddy bear popup near Place Vendôme is Instagram gold, but the real treat is dessert at Bar Vendôme. Trust me on this: order the Buche de Noël from their legendary pastry chef—it’s chocolate hazelnut heaven. Yes, it’s a splurge at around 40 euros, but you’re sitting under the stars on the covered terrace of one of the world’s most iconic hotels, and every bite is pure luxury. Can’t snag a reservation? The Ritz Comptoir pastry shop sells beautiful treats to go, and there’s a charming outdoor chalet where you can enjoy pastries while gazing at Place Vendôme.
This year they have a Ritz Teddy Bear pop up where you can buy memorabilia, souvenirs and enjoy the ambiance of the Ritz.
Rooftop Skating at Galeries Lafayette
Galeries Lafayette doesn’t just do Christmas—they perform it. The department store’s interior Christmas tree seems to defy gravity, suspended beneath that gorgeous Art Nouveau dome of the Coupole. But here’s the secret: take the elevator to the rooftop. Not only is there an ice skating rink with possibly the best views in Paris (hello, Eiffel Tower and Opéra Garnier!), but it’s also one of the most romantic spots for watching the sunset paint the Parisian sky.
Only here for the winter season, and you can have a picture skating with the Eiffel Tower in the backdrop – how cool is that?!
The department store also offer personalstyling session, macaron making class and wellness beauty treatments.
Paris Christmas Markets: From Classic to Cozy
The Notre Dame Christmas Market has returned with the cathedral’s reopening—smaller than Tuileries but utterly charming, with local artisans and that unmistakable Parisian warmth. From the Square Rene Viviane spanning towards the St Michael fountain its great fun. Live musicians add to the atmosphere on some days, making even rainy evenings feel magical.
Hotel de Ville hosts another enchanting market in front of Paris’s city hall, which glows ethereal blue at night. The carousel, the French products, the crepes and raclette—it’s everything you want a Parisian Christmas market to be. You want to get out just in fron of the BHV Marais at the Metro stop line 1 Hotel de Ville.
Paris Window Christmas Displays
Window shopping at Christmas is practically a Parisian ritual — and honestly, it’s one of my favorite things to do this time of year. The Grands Magasins really show off in December. Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, and La Samaritaine turn their windows into little fantasy worlds, each one telling its own holiday story. Even if you don’t plan to buy a thing, strolling past them is part of the experience.
I also love wandering along rue Saint-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne, where the luxury houses lean into the season in a more understated but incredibly elegant way. And yes — when Louis Vuitton installs one of their bold, over-the-top displays, I always stop. It’s dramatic, playful, and very Paris. Chef’s kiss.
Why is Paris Hot Chocolate world renowned?
When the December cold really sets in, I’m usually thinking about hot chocolate. I enjoy social media but in the last few years things have really gotten out of hand… for the better. Hahaha … Angelina is iconic for a reason, thick, rich, and unapologetically indulgent. Yes, there’s often a line, but if you have the time, it’s worth it at least once.
The chocolate is THICK, creamy and delicious …plus they add whipped creme on top.
If you want something a little calmer, Carette on Place des Vosges is just as delicious and a bit more relaxed, especially on a quiet weekday afternoon. And for something truly special, I love Maison Proust, where you can enjoy Angelina’s hot chocolate in a beautifully moody, almost secretive setting. It’s the perfect stop when you need to warm up, slow down, and hide from the cold for a while.
Montmartre: Village Christmas on the hill of Paris
Montmartre at Christmas has a very different energy from the rest of the city — softer, slower, and much more like a village.
I usually start with a walk past La Maison Rose, which somehow looks even more magical in winter. At Place du Tertre, artists still set up their easels, bundled in scarves, while nearby stands sell crêpes and mulled wine — perfect for warming your hands as you wander.
From there, I head to Devotions for a really good coffee, then settle in for lunch at Le Caboulot 18, a cozy spot that feels just right on a cold day. The narrow cobblestone streets, the views stretching across Paris, the quiet moments between tourists — this is Montmartre at its most romantic, and the version I love sharing most.
Raclette or Caviar? The Best of Paris
One of the things I love about Paris is that winter dining can swing in completely different directions — and both feel right.
For pure comfort, Le Chalet Savoyard is hard to beat. Raclette arrives bubbling and fragrant, cheese scraped generously over potatoes while you sit wrapped up in a warm, chalet-style setting. It’s cozy, filling, and exactly what you want on a cold night.
On the other end of the spectrum, Petrossian is the place for caviar. It’s refined, indulgent, and beautifully done, with thoughtful pairings and impeccable service. Is it a splurge? Yes. But at Christmas, in Paris, sometimes that feels perfectly justified.
A Winter Night at the Opera Garnier
Christmas is also a wonderful excuse to dress up a little and go to the opera. Whether you choose the modern Opéra Bastille or the breathtaking Opéra Garnier, the experience always feels special.
During the holidays, productions like Notre-Dame de Paris often run, with ticket prices ranging from very accessible at 15 euros to full-on splurge at 250 euros. The music, the setting, the sense of occasion — being inside one of Paris’s most beautiful buildings on a winter evening is hard to beat. It’s one of those nights that stays with you long after the curtain falls.
My personal fave is Opera Garnier for the beauty and history.
Paris Bûche de Noël Hunt
Christmas in Paris comes with one very delicious mission: finding the perfect Bûche de Noël.
Every pastry chef has their own interpretation — some classic, some playful, some completely sculptural — and December is really the only time of year you’ll see them all side by side. I like to start at Galeries Gourmet Lafayette or Le Grand Épicerie de Paris, where you can see creations from multiple top pastry houses in one place. It’s ideal if you want options (and trust me, you will).
For something more historic, Stohrer — Paris’s oldest pâtisserie — is always a good idea, while Au Merveilleux de Fred offers lighter, cloud-like versions that feel almost dangerously easy to eat. Any of these spots will give you enough choices to last several days, and the quality is consistently top tier. And yes, trying more than one is absolutely encouraged. I won’t tell.
Paris Museum Pass + reccomendations
Winter in Paris — and especially December — is my favorite time for museums. The pace slows, the crowds thin out, and you can actually take your time without feeling rushed.
If you plan to visit more than a couple, the Paris Museum Pass is well worth it, giving access to over 60 museums and monuments. Even the Louvre feels more manageable this time of year, and you can finally breathe while standing in front of the Mona Lisa.
One museum I always recommend is the Musée de l’Orangerie. Sitting inside the oval rooms surrounded by Monet’s water lilies on a cold winter day feels incredibly calming — intimate, quiet, and completely transporting.
Petit Palais is another favorite that has a stunning garden to pause inside and even have a tea from the cafe.
And a little insider note: I’ve heard that Louvre ticket prices are set to increase to €32 in the new year, so visiting now feels like a small Christmas gift in itself.
Tea Time, Parisian Style
Paris does high tea time beautifully — and it’s one of my favorite ways to mark a special moment. Go with your best friend, your mom, or treat yourself just because you’re in Paris and you can.
For a truly elegant experience, book afternoon tea at the Four Seasons George V (their Christmas tree alone is reason enough to go), The Ritz, The Burgundy Hotel, or The Peninsula. It’s never just about the tea — it’s the pastries, the atmosphere, the slow pace, the feeling of dressing up a little and lingering longer than planned.
Think delicate sandwiches, beautiful desserts, a glass of champagne if you feel like it, and that unmistakable sense of Parisian indulgence. Pretty pretty and oh so chic!!
Stocking Up on French Tea (and a Little History)
Before leaving Paris, I always recommend stopping by Dammann Frères or Mariage Frères to stock up on tea. The tins make perfect gifts, but they’re also a lovely way to bring a bit of Paris home with you — there’s something grounding about brewing the same tea months later and being transported back.
Another favorite is Nina’s Paris – Vendôme, where you’ll find teas inspired by historical recipes, including blends said to have been enjoyed by Marie-Antoinette. They also have a charming tea room where you can sit, relax, and enjoy desserts — a beautiful pause in the middle of a winter day.
Practical Tips for Your Paris Christmas Adventure
When to Visit: The magic really kicks in from late November through early January. The first two weeks of December offer the best balance of festivities without overwhelming crowds. Avoid December 23-26 when many restaurants close for the holidays.
What to Pack:
- Layers! December in Paris averages 3-8°C (37-46°F)
- Waterproof boots (cobblestones + rain = necessary)
- A chic coat (Parisians notice!)
- Umbrella (compact, stylish)
- Scarf and gloves for market browsing
- Comfortable walking shoes for museum days
Getting Around: Paris Metro is efficient and runs late. Get a Navigo Découverte pass for unlimited travel (€30.75 weekly) or Paris Visite pass for tourists. Most Christmas attractions are concentrated in the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 8th, and 18th arrondissements—very walkable!
Money-Saving Tips:
- Many Christmas markets and window displays are completely free
- Museum pass pays for itself after 3-4 major museums
- Lunch menus at nice restaurants are 50% cheaper than dinner
- Picnic supplies from local markets beat restaurant prices
Booking Timeline:
- 2-3 months ahead: Opera tickets, Ritz reservations, special experiences
- 1 month ahead: Popular restaurants, afternoon tea
- 2 weeks ahead: Museum tours, cooking classes
- Book now: Accommodations (seriously, now!)
Are you getting ready for Christmas in Paris?
While many people think of Strasbourg as the Christmas city in France (and it IS magical!), Paris at Christmas isn’t just a trip—it’s a feeling, a mood, a moment when everything glitters a bit more brightly. The crowds thin out (relatively speaking), the locals come out to play, and the city reveals its most intimate, magical self.
Whether you’re sipping champagne at the Ritz with snowflakes drifting past the windows, gliding across the ice at Galeries Lafayette with the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the distance, or simply wandering the passages couverts as fairy lights dance across centuries-old glass ceilings, Paris in December will absolutely steal your heart.
Or come see me up in Montmartre—grab a coffee at my neighborhood café, wander the quiet morning streets before the tourists arrive, and I’ll show you the Paris that locals love. The one that exists in the in-between moments, in the warm bakery on a cold morning, in the knowing smile of a shopkeeper who remembers your order. That’s the Paris I fell in love with almost 20 years ago, and it’s the one that shines brightest during the holidays.
Pack your coziest coat, your chicest scarf, and your sense of wonder. The City of Light is waiting to dazzle you, and trust me—Christmas in Paris is a gift that keeps on giving, long after you’ve returned home.
If you’d like to see a more local fun side of Paris – you can book one of my one on one tours here.
Joyeux Noël!
PS as this article was getting so long I made a separate document with all the Paris Christmas addresses here