Gare du Nord isn't exactly known as Paris's culinary epicenter. Most travelers rushing between platforms see only the expected chain cafés and rushed sandwiches. But live here long enough, as I have for over a decade, and you discover something different: a neighborhood where Belle Époque brasseries sit alongside natural wine bars, where you can find South Indian dosas as authentic as any in Chennai, and where the croissants are worth missing your train for. The key is knowing where to loo[...]






