Paris City Guide: Discover Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis
Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis, 75010 (10th Arr) Paris is one of my favorite neighborhoods to just wander around, grab a cheap snack, have a romantic dinner, people watch at a cafe and or flirt the night away at trendy cocktail bar.
In recent years I’ve seen a rejuvenation in the neighborhood where I’ve been doing my fruit shopping for years, and I love it. It goes without saying that the rent here has probably doubled in the last two years, but may still be cheaper than let’s say the Marais.
Usually, after taking my son to school I walk all the way from Etienne Marcel via Rue Saint Denis under the Arc at Porte Saint Denis over to the vibrant street, welcomed by the smell of butcher, poulet roti (traditional fresh roasted chicken), early morning baguette, Greek gyros and kebab broiling, whiff from the local flower shop facing the fruit vendors dressed in all green calling out the deals of the day.
and oh how could I forget a staple of homeless people, in front of the arch or Franprix supermarket.
This part of paris is a mix of cliches and reality. Here Paris is alive and well in a beautiful cacophony.
As seen here in the film Paris Je T’aime via Tom Tykwer, this is truly the version of the street, I know and love.
You, well if you’re into experiencing non-touristy Paris have to walk down Faubourg Saint Denis, at least once, for an authentic feel of local life.
There are not many places where you’ll find an explanation of the breakdown of Paris – but here this area is in the 10th Arrondissement, close to the Canal Saint Martin, and hipsters affectionately call it FSD (sounds so much like STD! but ha I quite?like it 🙂 or maybe that’s just a thing my pals do!
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Some of my favorite places, in no particular order:
Cour des Petites ?curies?- ?is a great place to head to for an apero or dinner on a Thursday to any weekend night. Find O-p-ti Paris – Lucky Luciano, Gros, Tribal cafe here.
SEE MAP AT END TO SAVE ALL THE ADDRESSEES.
Chez Jeanette (Bistro)?- is a neighborhood cafe that many stops into the morning to have a quick espresso at the counter quickly and read the morning paper. Lunchtime the kitchen always serves up the best french food for relatively good price and at night the ambiance becomes very trendy with music and dj on friday and saturday night.
Mauri 7 (le Mauricette) – across from Chez Jeanette is another hipster bar that is full of 20 something. They have a pinball machine and baby foot the vibe is more grunge mixed with Yves Saint Laurent.
FAB – French American Bakery – is a coffee shop and lunch spot that has the biggest quiches and yummy?sandwiches.
Le Sully?(local bar)?-?a popular meeting spot any day of the week for after work drink. You can feel the hustle and bustle of the mixed street when you sit on the terrace, creepy old men included, but also the best place to mingle with the young bohemian crowd.
PNY Burgers – ?a long time favorite on the burger scene – you have to try the one with the Roquefort cheese and their homemade buns are so moist.
52 Faubourg St. Denis (Restaurant)?- One of the more chic spots offer consistent, yet exquisite prepared food at the price that won’t break the bank, great for a date night or to take friends visiting from out-of-town.
Urfa Durum -?Still one of the best places to grab a cheap kurdish sandwich in Paris. There may be a line but nothing beats their basic 3.50 Euros sandwich (lahmacun – pronounced lamajoom)
Chateau D’eau (Bar) – One of the bars where people are always standing on its corner, beer in hand talking, laughing ?- at any given time of the day.
Le Napol?on (bistro) -?another cool place to have a drink and they also have the best vegetarian burger on the street.
Bistro Urban – Make a reservation to try the seasonal selection from the chef. reasonably priced. Mix of bistro and gastronomy.
Sette?(Pizza)– An Italian run fast food joint serving the best thin slice pizza this side of town. 7 euros average price.
Taka & Vermo (Cheese) ?- Not your mamas cheese shop. Young owners with marbled decor and friendly service offers some modern twists.
Le Daily Syrian (Falafel) – The best falafel sandwiches at lunch time for a special price of 8 euros
Tiny Vietnamese (window) on Rue des petites ecuries, just at the intersection across from Le Napoleon offers the best Bo bun for around 6 euros take away.
Le Delice du Chateau D’eau – Really a mom and pop shop that sells crepes, turkish delight and gifts BUT have one of the best vegetarian lunch with diverse options. Love this place because I can have take away for the office under 5 euros!
Juhles?(wine, cheese) – A compact one-stop wine cheese and sausage address. the bakery next door has some great baguette. Lunchtime you can make your own sandwiches for around 4 euros by selection your slices, cheese and bread.
La Quincalliere (bistro) – Great spot to meet pals for a drink after work, with friendly staff.
Capri Bazaar (Italian deli)?- Italian fine eatery – stock up and you can also try one of their sandwiches.
Passage Brady (Indian) – An iron clad passage off ?FSD is a historical landmark that a bit unkempt but popular for the quick indian food (not as authentic as the ones you can get in Gare du Nord).
Monsieur Baba (bistro) – Good for happy hour drinks as you get a drink and cheese platter for 8 euros.
Peonies – a really cool mix of one part flower and coffee shop
5 Pailles – one of the best places to lounge and have coffee in paris, with lots of seating at the back!